1.
bolt inserts for struts
2.
nut inserts for struts
it seems like the nut and bolt inserts are not entirely concentric and on axis. do take note that the "thing" that keeps the inserts from getting pulled out, there are 2 layers.
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3.
finder clamp
4.
sliding counterweight
the scope is top heavy. without any accessories, tilting the OTA to 45 degrees and applying a light push, will cause to OTA to continue all the way down. so the CW will definitely have to be used at the mirror end of the OTA.
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5.
the rocker box, underneath
6.
the azimuth bearings
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7.
the mirror with centre marking
8.
the rear end of the mirror box
9.
the mirror cell
on the rear of the mirror, u can see 3 wing nuts for collimation. they obviously do the pulling. the pushing is done by the springs shown in the mirror cell image. the black thing in the middle is a counterweight. the mirror cell is the original meade cell, mirror held by adhesive. the mirror is 1.8" thick.
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10.
the destiny curved spider
11
the collimation parts on the spider
the secondary mirror is held to the holder by adhesive too. the centre bolt pulls the mirror up into the spider, tensioned by a spring. the spring is not the original spring supplied. the original spring is stiffer and considering how low the mirror has to sit, it totally scares me to put some much stress into the whole system. also take note how high the spring retaining nuts are set. they are already interfering with the collimation bolts while the spring is already near its max compression. i am considering removing the spring and using nuts to "clamp" the centre stalk to a fix position.
the mirror is made of wood, i believe. so the collimation bolts are somewhat "biting" into the wood, as caused by the spring tension. but yet the tension is supposed to help retain collimation. but i am in a wonder, will removing the spring and instead use the collimation bolts themselves to maintain tension be a good idea? i also intend to get cap nuts for the collimation bolts so that they wont "bite" the wood, as i suspect the "biting" may cause the mirror to rotate when i adjust the collimation bolts.
anyone know where i can obtain nuts and bolts without having to go into industrial estates to look?
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12.
half assembled scope
13.
fully assembled OTA
14.
fully assembled scope
the scope motion is quite smooth. although the real test will be actually trying the track planets at 200x
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15.
compacted scope, beside trolley
16.
compacted scope on trolley
i havent got bubble wrap yet, so the scope cannot leave home yet. the weight of the scope actually puts a little bit of strain on the trolley if i dont secure the "base plate" to the pulling frame using the bungee cord. the only places will bubble wrap will probably be the base and the "back" (where is rests against the trolley frame). the rest of the rocker box should be able to take some light knocks.
the compacted OTA is little more problematic. it just sits nicely into the rocker box, i may have little to no room to wrap bubble wrap around the OTA. if thats the case i may have to securely tie down the OTA to the rocker box to prevent any damage to the OTA from impact to the rocker box. while the OTA structure is quite strong, the spider is the major safety weakpoint. hardest to protect. i may need to find something to cover it up during transport.
another note, i am thinking of drilling out a hole in the front plate of the rocker box to save some weight (just like its sides). only thing is the need to get verathane vanish to protect the freshly exposed wood.
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lastly, myself
sorry it took so long. i have great propensity to procrastinate. watching anime, which is my other major pastime was more gratifying than taking some effort to borrow a camera to take pictures of own scope. LOL
(ps, the pictures looks warm because i forgot to adjust WB...)
(ps, i have no idea how to get the pictures to actually display on the same post)
