A Premium ATM 10" Newtonian Project

Wanna make a scope? Or better still, grind a mirror yourself. Or, you have some good tips in making a really useful accessory? This is the place to show what your hands can do...
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Tachyon
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Post by Tachyon »

Nice! But EM100?
[80% Steve, 20% Alfred] ------- Probability of Clear Skies = (Age of newest equipment in days) / [(Number of observers) * (Total Aperture of all telescopes present in mm)]
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anat
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Post by anat »

It looks famliar. Is it an ATM Infinity scope ? :) Well done.

Anat
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ariefm71
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Post by ariefm71 »

Nice! But EM100?
Yup, the EM-100 is no longer produced. The weight capacity is between EM-10 and EM-200 (30lbs imaging capacity). My EM-100 has been upgraded by Art Ciampi to use the motors and controller from a Tak NJP mount (PD-XY8). I bought the mount here: http://www.astromart.com/classifieds/de ... _id=409667
Last edited by ariefm71 on Thu Apr 13, 2006 3:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Tachyon
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Post by Tachyon »

Cool... I'm currently looking at the EM200 Temma 2. Would like to have a look at yours before I decide.. :)
[80% Steve, 20% Alfred] ------- Probability of Clear Skies = (Age of newest equipment in days) / [(Number of observers) * (Total Aperture of all telescopes present in mm)]
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ariefm71
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Post by ariefm71 »

It looks famliar. Is it an ATM Infinity scope ? Well done.
Yes, it looks similar to Infinity's UTI scopes without the fork mount, but I use longer lower tube to better balance the scope.
Cool... I'm currently looking at the EM200 Temma 2. Would like to have a look at yours before I decide..
You're welcome, Andrew, but my mount is no longer in production. Sometimes, this mount will appear in Japanese auction site as well.
Last edited by ariefm71 on Thu Apr 13, 2006 4:43 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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ariefm71
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Post by ariefm71 »

Selecting Fan Capacity

Bryan Greer of Protostar is the person you want to talk to to discuss newtonian cooling. You can see his S&T articles on this topic here: http://www.fpi-protostar.com/bgreer/

Since I'm using a thin mirror (1" thick only), he recommends me to use a small fan (15cfm) to minimize the effect of vibration of the fan to the image. To eliminate the vibration altogether, I'm also using a (dc) brushless fan.

The following pics are taken from Bryan's articles.
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Last edited by ariefm71 on Fri Apr 14, 2006 12:33 am, edited 1 time in total.
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VinSnr
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Post by VinSnr »

Bro...do you really need cooling in our kind of weather?

With temperature differences of less than a degree between inside house and outside, I really don't see the need. That fan is gonna blow dust into your rocker box.

Last time with the portaball, the mirror would "cool" within 10 minutes.
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ariefm71
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Post by ariefm71 »

Just, being kiasu la :D
I read in your Portaball CloudyNights' article the fan greatly help even in Singapore. I will probably turn it on for 5 minutes only before using the scope.
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ariefm71
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Post by ariefm71 »

OK, a bit of trivia first, name the 4 EPs (brand) I will be using on this scope as shown on the ep selection table:
1. 36mm 70* = ?
2. 12.5mm 52* = ?
3. 3.8mm 52* = ?
4. 2.5mm 60* = ?
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VinSnr
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Post by VinSnr »

ariefm71 wrote:Just, being kiasu la :D
I read in your Portaball CloudyNights' article the fan greatly help even in Singapore. I will probably turn it on for 5 minutes only before using the scope.
Yes it helps...but that's because the mirror was totally enclosed by the sphere and the fan was below the mirror so I am not too worried about sucking in dust from the back of the scope. Also, when the mirror is pretty enclosed, it will take slightly longer for cool down so the fan helps a little. But for your design, I think the back of your tube is open.

But after awhile, I realised there is no need for the fan and I never use it ever again.

Put the fan in if you must, but becareful of dust.
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