Well, I raided the tip for some computer fans and coolers....I have been a busy boy tonight.
I was a bit nervous about pulling the scope to bits to do this, but it is well and truly out of warranty now and I am fairly confident I know what I am doing....
I will be writing a FULL tutorial and have LOTS of photos, so stay tuned folks!
Baz.
How to cool your telescope
How to cool your telescope
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- p4cm4n2000
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Hi John, Yes I did sand it back to bare aluminium. The fans will have heat paste applied and then be screwed on from the inside. Wait and see mate, turtorial coming soon for all the answers...
Baz.
Baz.
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All done!!!
With inspiration and guidance from Paul and Anthony (They developed this method) from Southern Celestial Pole, I have completed an active cooling modification and tutorial on my C11 SCT, using Peltier coolers.
http://www.asignobservatory.com/Cooling ... ation.aspx
My thanks to both of them for their encouragement and backing to share this around.
Cheers,
Baz.
With inspiration and guidance from Paul and Anthony (They developed this method) from Southern Celestial Pole, I have completed an active cooling modification and tutorial on my C11 SCT, using Peltier coolers.
http://www.asignobservatory.com/Cooling ... ation.aspx
My thanks to both of them for their encouragement and backing to share this around.
Cheers,
Baz.
Builds By Baz
https://www.buildsbybaz.com
https://www.buildsbybaz.com
- Airconvent
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hi,
Be honest with you. This is not the way to be cooling the telescope. its reminds me how i made my DIY class A amplifire and heatsink was cooling by few fans. its good for class A amp but not good telescope.
if you are watching in low X then is ok but when you use high X you can see the super vibration with the object. 100% not good for photography not visual.
Be honest with you. This is not the way to be cooling the telescope. its reminds me how i made my DIY class A amplifire and heatsink was cooling by few fans. its good for class A amp but not good telescope.
if you are watching in low X then is ok but when you use high X you can see the super vibration with the object. 100% not good for photography not visual.
Hello Michael, can you please clarify what is this low x and high x you speak of?
This IS a great way to cool a telescope so I have to disagree with you. You might notice if you look closely, that it is not JUST cooling fans and heat sinks. There are also three electric peltier cooling cards under each heat sink, to ACTIVELY draw the heat out of the metal of the mirror back. There are also three small internal fans to circulate the air over the cold metal, dropping the temperature inside the telescope rapidly.
As far as vibration is concerned, the fans are turned off during photography OF COURSE! The idea is to cool the telescope BEFORE imaging, to obtain stable optics inside, with greatly reduced thermal currents within the telescope.
The mirror temperature dropped rapidly every time, within about 20 minutes. I got much more stable image as a result, making my images sharper, clearer and much easier to focus.
As a result, my planetary imaging improved tremendously overnight.
The only thing I did wrong was to break the corrector in the process, so I sold the scope before I could really do much more.
The guy who owns it now, loves it, uses it and has a cooled scope for when he decides to do his own photography, a feature that doesn't usually come standard.
If you disagree, please try to argue with the thousands of people all around the world with DIY and commercial, off-the-shelf, cooled telescopes.
This IS a great way to cool a telescope so I have to disagree with you. You might notice if you look closely, that it is not JUST cooling fans and heat sinks. There are also three electric peltier cooling cards under each heat sink, to ACTIVELY draw the heat out of the metal of the mirror back. There are also three small internal fans to circulate the air over the cold metal, dropping the temperature inside the telescope rapidly.
As far as vibration is concerned, the fans are turned off during photography OF COURSE! The idea is to cool the telescope BEFORE imaging, to obtain stable optics inside, with greatly reduced thermal currents within the telescope.
The mirror temperature dropped rapidly every time, within about 20 minutes. I got much more stable image as a result, making my images sharper, clearer and much easier to focus.
As a result, my planetary imaging improved tremendously overnight.
The only thing I did wrong was to break the corrector in the process, so I sold the scope before I could really do much more.
The guy who owns it now, loves it, uses it and has a cooled scope for when he decides to do his own photography, a feature that doesn't usually come standard.
If you disagree, please try to argue with the thousands of people all around the world with DIY and commercial, off-the-shelf, cooled telescopes.
Builds By Baz
https://www.buildsbybaz.com
https://www.buildsbybaz.com
x is the magnification.
if you only used it for cooling after or before viewing or imaging then should be ok. its not really require unless your country weather is very hot. mostly at night time weather temp is lower then day time. Your telescope metal body ultimately working as a heatsink. if your telescope mirror glass is not pyrex and the mirror is large also the weather is hot then you have think for some other option to cooling down.
if you only used it for cooling after or before viewing or imaging then should be ok. its not really require unless your country weather is very hot. mostly at night time weather temp is lower then day time. Your telescope metal body ultimately working as a heatsink. if your telescope mirror glass is not pyrex and the mirror is large also the weather is hot then you have think for some other option to cooling down.