I got couple of enquiries asking what's my next scope and stuff. One even "book" the scope incase I want to sell it later. Think this is getting a bit out of hand and I better declare my scope first before my PM got flooded again.
Anyway, I doubt anyone will be interested in my next scope...because it's going to be a 8" f/5 newtonian (must lead by example..hehe....can hear a lot of sigh now)
This scope was bought mainly for "supercharging". I bought it cheap. The mirror will be send to master optician Alan Raycraft (of Starmaster Oak fame) for complete refiguring. It's great to have Alan back (he somewhat went into retirement and dissappear from the astro scene, but he is now back doing mirrors for Tscopes. Most probably for the up and coming 8" Starmaster too). It's a great priviledge to have Alan agree to refigure this mirror for me.
While the mirror is away, I will flock the internal tube. Actually, for a newtonian, one of the best improvement with very little $$$ is flocking. Because it's an open tube, it is more prone to stray light. Flocking gives you instant improvement at very little cost.
Next to go will be the spider. Will change the spider to curve vanes and get a new secondary mirror with 1/20 wave.
Last will be the modifications on the focuser.....but this one will depends. I like the Clement focuser.....3 inch travel sounds good.
So I have told you my new scope and what I intend to do with it. This scope was bought for having modification fun. I like to tinker with scopes, and it can't get better than this. Once it's ready, this scope will be on steroids.
My next scope is....
Re: My next scope is....
Just for the info of newer newt users, the most cost effective areas to improve contrast in a newt are (IMHO):VinSnr wrote:
While the mirror is away, I will flock the internal tube. Actually, for a newtonian, one of the best improvement with very little $$$ is flocking. Because it's an open tube, it is more prone to stray light. Flocking gives you instant improvement at very little cost.
Next to go will be the spider. Will change the spider to curve vanes and get a new secondary mirror with 1/20 wave.
1. Baffle the primary.
2. Baffle the bottom of the focuser draw tube.
3. Flock the part of the tube directly across from the focuser.
4. Blacken the edges of the secondary (if exposed)
If done properly, all you should see when you look down the draw tube is the circular profile of the secondary. The space around it should be jet black.
Kay Heem
Re: My next scope is....
good tips from one of the newtonian masters here.kayheem wrote:Just for the info of newer newt users, the most cost effective areas to improve contrast in a newt are (IMHO):VinSnr wrote:
While the mirror is away, I will flock the internal tube. Actually, for a newtonian, one of the best improvement with very little $$$ is flocking. Because it's an open tube, it is more prone to stray light. Flocking gives you instant improvement at very little cost.
Next to go will be the spider. Will change the spider to curve vanes and get a new secondary mirror with 1/20 wave.
1. Baffle the primary.
2. Baffle the bottom of the focuser draw tube.
3. Flock the part of the tube directly across from the focuser.
4. Blacken the edges of the secondary (if exposed)
If done properly, all you should see when you look down the draw tube is the circular profile of the secondary. The space around it should be jet black.
Kay Heem
How do you actually baffle the primary and focuser tube? Use what materials and how?
Re: My next scope is....
If you are using a solid tube newt, then baffling the primary may not be necessary. It is more important in a truss dob without a shroud. Some tips are found here:VinSnr wrote:good tips from one of the newtonian masters here.kayheem wrote:
Just for the info of newer newt users, the most cost effective areas to improve contrast in a newt are (IMHO):
1. Baffle the primary.
2. Baffle the bottom of the focuser draw tube.
3. Flock the part of the tube directly across from the focuser.
4. Blacken the edges of the secondary (if exposed)
If done properly, all you should see when you look down the draw tube is the circular profile of the secondary. The space around it should be jet black.
Kay Heem
How do you actually baffle the primary and focuser tube? Use what materials and how?
http://home.digitalexp.com/~suiterhr/TM/Topten.htm
For baffling a focuser, rack the tube out such that the upper end of the eyepiece holder is at the focal point.
Look thru the eyepiece holder at the secondary mirror. Place a transparent plastic ruler over the bottom end of the drawtube and determine the diameter of the secondary mirror as seen on the ruler when viewed from the eyepiece holder.
Cut a circle from a suitable material (I use black craft paper) with the same diameter as the ext diam of the draw tube. Cut away the centre of this circle to obtain a donut. When this is attached to the bottom of the draw tube, the secondary mirror should be seen from the top with very little else surrounding it. This should not be ovedone or it may actually vignet part of the secondary.
I can't find the link anymore, but I have seen an article on this in S&T some time ago.
Rgds,
Kay Heem
- Airconvent
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Re: My next scope is....
hi vinceVinSnr wrote:I got couple of enquiries asking what's my next scope and stuff. One even "book" the scope incase I want to sell it later. Think this is getting a bit out of hand and I better declare my scope first before my PM got flooded again.
Anyway, I doubt anyone will be interested in my next scope...because it's going to be a 8" f/5 newtonian (must lead by example..hehe....can hear a lot of sigh now)
so when will you be selling it at your usual prices?

you finally let the Newt (since its not a CATadoptric) out of the bag...
So to keep the cost low, I suspect you bought a Skywatcher Newt to harvest the tube? Why not a Zambuto mirror instead?
rich
The Boldly Go Where No Meade Has Gone Before
Captain, RSS Enterprise NCC1701R
United Federation of the Planets
Captain, RSS Enterprise NCC1701R
United Federation of the Planets
Re: My next scope is....
Zambuto doesn't do mirror or refiguring for individuals. So how to get one?Airconvent wrote:hi vinceVinSnr wrote:I got couple of enquiries asking what's my next scope and stuff. One even "book" the scope incase I want to sell it later. Think this is getting a bit out of hand and I better declare my scope first before my PM got flooded again.
Anyway, I doubt anyone will be interested in my next scope...because it's going to be a 8" f/5 newtonian (must lead by example..hehe....can hear a lot of sigh now)
so when will you be selling it at your usual prices?![]()
you finally let the Newt (since its not a CATadoptric) out of the bag...
So to keep the cost low, I suspect you bought a Skywatcher Newt to harvest the tube? Why not a Zambuto mirror instead?
rich
To me, Bob Royce, Alan Raycraft, Mark Harry, Mike Spooner, Steve Swayze, Carl Zambuto are all of the same league. You get a mirror from any of these six, you are sure you are getting one of the best mirror around.
It's not that I am eyeing for a 9.25 XLT. I am eyeing for any good deals.addy wrote:I thot you were eying a Celestrone 9.25 XLT. saw one of your ads..
If you check my ad history, you will see that I want a 10" SN, TV85, TV76, and many others which I can't remember...
Did I buy any of them? No..but it cost nothing to find out what people are willing to sell them for.
then you might be interested in this:It's not that I am eyeing for a 9.25 XLT. I am eyeing for any good deals.
http://www.astromart.com/classifieds/de ... _id=278048
he's willing to sell for AUD2000.00 SHIPPED to singapore and includes aluminum case fitted for C9.25. It's "only" starbright coating, though, not XLT