Hi all,
I will be buying some filters for my school club to use for astrophotography in june.
After extensive research, i have came to conclude that these 3 filters forms the most essential and economically efficient combination, for use in Singapore and suburban skies.
DSLR cameras we are using ranges from Canon 1000d, nikon d90 to olympus e620. Scope is VC200L/ starblast 4.5/ r200ss / C5 maksutov
(Note that we could not be bothered to buy a polarizing filter cause we are already tired of the moon.)
1.25” Orion Sky glow Astrophotography filter = $209 (multi-purpose, the broad transmission spectrum which blocks out only the sodium/ mercury vapour emissions will permit us to take anything from galaxies to planets.)
Orion 1.25in. UltraBlock Narrowband Eyepiece Filter = $149
(rather than buying 2 H-beta and o3 filters separately, this filter have up to 95% transmission between 450nm and 550nm wavelength)
Lumicon Hydrogen-Alpha Filter, 1.25" = $149
(a rather essential filter for astrophotography, brings out the glow in eagle neb, lagoon neb, horse head, etc. Backs up the ultrablock filter above, cause it does not cover the H alpha wavelengths)
Please tell me what you guys think and feel free to give advice/ comments.
Thanks
Is this the essential filter combination?
oh, wrong, all 3 of them are wrong. what u wan is the IDAS LPS filter. you wouldn't wan ultrablock for imaging purposes, everything comes out green, although it's a very nice filter at the eyepiece end.
if u need h-alpha, look at the baader or astrodons. astronomiks and the orion is ok too.
as a side note, lpr filters don't work well on galaxies and planets. wierd colours and that they don't give out much in the h-a regions.
if u need h-alpha, look at the baader or astrodons. astronomiks and the orion is ok too.
as a side note, lpr filters don't work well on galaxies and planets. wierd colours and that they don't give out much in the h-a regions.
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weixing
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Hi,
With a normal DSLR, Hydrogen-Alpha is basically useless as the built-in IR cut filter in DSLR will block it anyway. Also, planetary imaging will not be affected by light pollution... the planet is bright enough, magnification is usually high and exposure will be too short to be affected.
Have a nice day.
With a normal DSLR, Hydrogen-Alpha is basically useless as the built-in IR cut filter in DSLR will block it anyway. Also, planetary imaging will not be affected by light pollution... the planet is bright enough, magnification is usually high and exposure will be too short to be affected.
Have a nice day.
Yang Weixing
"The universe is composed mainly of hydrogen and ignorance."
"The universe is composed mainly of hydrogen and ignorance." 
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weixing
- Super Moderator
- Posts: 4708
- Joined: Wed Oct 01, 2003 12:22 am
- Favourite scope: Vixen R200SS & Celestron 6" F5 Achro Refractor
- Location: (Tampines) Earth of Solar System in Orion Arm of Milky Way Galaxy in Local Group Galaxies Cluster
Hi,
Have a nice day.
Ignore how bright the image look, look at the histogram instead... as long as no part is over-expose (no part hitting the right edge of the histogram), it's ok and will be able to remove after processing. If still over-expose, use a lower ISO.Bergkamp_ wrote:i'm using dslr too.. after 2 mins of exposure.. the pic has"bright" background so wat is needed?
Have a nice day.
Yang Weixing
"The universe is composed mainly of hydrogen and ignorance."
"The universe is composed mainly of hydrogen and ignorance." Depends on what you are taking, if taking nebulosity, just play around with curves and histohram. YouTube has plenty of video tutorials on that. Narrowband filters work too, such as o3 and s2 filters. Any suggestions on what should I get then? If the ultra block gives me green images, i can change that right? As in photoshopping the color or take it in monochrome.
@ wei xing,
There are instructions online on how to remove the filters in a DSLR, Or maybe I can try convincing the school to throw more money at a ccd, but not at the moment.
hey MooEy,
I know that o3 filters will result in green images (03 emission is green , duh) but planning to 'off-set' that disadvantage by replacing the red channel with the H-alpha exposure. We might also consider using that for observations too.
The LPR filter quite ok what, i checked the orion website and the graph shows that it lets a significant amount of H-alpha through. Furthermore, it is in stock, we need the filters like... 2 weeks from now, so not much of a choice. (Will probably consider buying that for myself, thanks)
Btw, what brand is jin peng's o3 filter? He seem to love it very much.
There are instructions online on how to remove the filters in a DSLR, Or maybe I can try convincing the school to throw more money at a ccd, but not at the moment.
hey MooEy,
I know that o3 filters will result in green images (03 emission is green , duh) but planning to 'off-set' that disadvantage by replacing the red channel with the H-alpha exposure. We might also consider using that for observations too.
The LPR filter quite ok what, i checked the orion website and the graph shows that it lets a significant amount of H-alpha through. Furthermore, it is in stock, we need the filters like... 2 weeks from now, so not much of a choice. (Will probably consider buying that for myself, thanks)
Btw, what brand is jin peng's o3 filter? He seem to love it very much.
u can try, but u will realise u can't really offset the colour. doesn't work that way. colours will just be wierd. don't think too far, it will just make ur life more difficult.
skip the h-a, ur camera can't see h-alpha due to the IR filter. longer exposures will just give u trailed stars. a never ending frustration.
stick to a simple lpr to get things done. orion claims the lpr to be neutral, can give it a try.
skip the h-a, ur camera can't see h-alpha due to the IR filter. longer exposures will just give u trailed stars. a never ending frustration.
stick to a simple lpr to get things done. orion claims the lpr to be neutral, can give it a try.