weixing wrote:Hi,
WOW!! Excellent shot...
Hmm... Just wonder why you choose to take so many frames at 45s exposure ISO800 instead of fewer frames, but longer exposure each?? Your mount should be able to take longer exposure at such short focal length. Is it because the comet is moving very fast, such that without guiding on the comet, the comet in the image will be blur?? Or because of the light pollution causing the image to saturate at longer exposure?? Or the comet is too bright that longer exposure is not necessary??
Anyway, do you think it is ok to take longer exposure without guiding on the comet?? I'll try to image the comet using the Vixen R135 during the weekend if the weather is clear. Since the focal length is quite short, I should be able to get a longer exposure (if I do a good drift alignment), so that I can image the comet at lower ISO to reduce noise, but worry that the comet will move (not doing any guiding on the comet) during the exposure if the exposure is too long causing blurring of the comet in the image.
Hope to hear more advices from all the experts.
Have a nice day.
My setup is roughly 350mm at f/4, and if I do not put the LPR, I will reach saturation at 30s at ISO 800. So my reason for short exposures is mostly light pollution. I think the comet should be far enough that minutes of exposures shouldnt smear (not too sure about that).
I think for DSLR, there is usually a certain ISO range that is optimum. For my 350D, i think it is at 400 or 800. Don't image at too low ISO, because the shadow areas (faint coma areas) are given too little tonal steps, then during the non-linear stretch stage, the shadow areas will posterise. ISO 200-800 should be a typical value for most cameras.
I chose 800 because I am scared of comet smearing also. Then all the 53 frames are stacked on the comet nucleus. But come to think of it now, 53 x 45s = 40mins and the stars hardly trailed. So it seems like that the comet is really far enough, that minutes of exposure will not cause smearing of the comet.
Haha, using the LPR really mess up all the colour balancing! Sigh, now I will need Hutech IDAS LPS filter because its colour balance is much better.
I am no expert, but I hope you can gain from my experience and take better shots.
