I am planning to give my surveyor tripod a fresh and different coat of colour. I plan only to paint the currently yellow steel parts and leave the aluminum as it is. May I know what should I do?
1) Sandpaper off the old paint? Or just paint over?
2) Should I use spray paint or brush and a tin of paint?
3) Should I also apply/spray a clear coat for protection?
First time doing these sort of things so am trying to find out exactly how to.
Thank you for your time.
Repainting of surveyor tripod
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timatworksg
- Posts: 767
- Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2010 9:42 pm
- Location: Pasir Ris
If it was me, and I wanted to refurbish a good thing, I would invest a little more and do a great job which I can feel good about. Others may have different ways...but this works for me.
1) Get paint remover (use eye goggles and Long gloves with good ventilation..this stuff burns). Brush it on and let it eat away the paint. Soft wire brush the flakes away and brush on more if needed for hard to reach spots. Then wash with warm water and soap (dynamo is good) to remove any grease/oil.
2) Grab some Epoxy based paint and the matching hardener that goes with it! BERGER is one brand or JOTUN. Mix the paint and hardener as per the ratio and brush on in thin coats. You can also get the required paint thinner/solvent to thin the mixed paint a little. Unless you have access to a spray gun then brush on is ok. Epoxy paint is thick and puts on a layer of skin on metal! I use this at work for all our emergency OffShore equipment from Athey wagons, centrifugal pumps to loading skids.
You could use a base primer such as spray paint red oxide primer for first coat. Epoxy paint also spreads out and fills up brush lines. So brush on and let it spread!! If you desire a better finish and extreme longevity, get Polyurethane Paint! But cost!! Negative point here to note,,...Epoxy paint doesn't come in small tins....only large ones!!
3) If you use Epoxy....no need for glaze coat or varnish over with anything!! You can even clean the painted parts with windex or WD40!!
Other things you could do for pre paint prep.
- After paint removed....use a Green Scouring pad and with circular strokes, scrub the metal parts of the tri pod. Re-surfaces the metal and cleans it. Wash thereafter!
- Red or white Lithium/high pressure grease (comes in tubes). Either ones last long, thick and coat your threads and places that need grease!! Don't dry up and protects from the elements!! If you need some I have the white lithium,,,lemme know!!
My 2 cents as I have use Epoxy/Polyurethane paint and have seen the results. We use Epoxy paint on the Warehouse Floors and with forklifts and all....only scratches and some minor dings...but stays on with a sheen!! This stuff is like skin!!
Only reason why I would try to avoid normal spray paint is that the paint doesn't stick very well on metal and is too thin a coat even when applied several times. Best spray paint I have used are the NIPPON ones but go for about $8 bucks a can!!!
If you have any questions....PM me and we can chit chat more!
1) Get paint remover (use eye goggles and Long gloves with good ventilation..this stuff burns). Brush it on and let it eat away the paint. Soft wire brush the flakes away and brush on more if needed for hard to reach spots. Then wash with warm water and soap (dynamo is good) to remove any grease/oil.
2) Grab some Epoxy based paint and the matching hardener that goes with it! BERGER is one brand or JOTUN. Mix the paint and hardener as per the ratio and brush on in thin coats. You can also get the required paint thinner/solvent to thin the mixed paint a little. Unless you have access to a spray gun then brush on is ok. Epoxy paint is thick and puts on a layer of skin on metal! I use this at work for all our emergency OffShore equipment from Athey wagons, centrifugal pumps to loading skids.
You could use a base primer such as spray paint red oxide primer for first coat. Epoxy paint also spreads out and fills up brush lines. So brush on and let it spread!! If you desire a better finish and extreme longevity, get Polyurethane Paint! But cost!! Negative point here to note,,...Epoxy paint doesn't come in small tins....only large ones!!
3) If you use Epoxy....no need for glaze coat or varnish over with anything!! You can even clean the painted parts with windex or WD40!!
Other things you could do for pre paint prep.
- After paint removed....use a Green Scouring pad and with circular strokes, scrub the metal parts of the tri pod. Re-surfaces the metal and cleans it. Wash thereafter!
- Red or white Lithium/high pressure grease (comes in tubes). Either ones last long, thick and coat your threads and places that need grease!! Don't dry up and protects from the elements!! If you need some I have the white lithium,,,lemme know!!
My 2 cents as I have use Epoxy/Polyurethane paint and have seen the results. We use Epoxy paint on the Warehouse Floors and with forklifts and all....only scratches and some minor dings...but stays on with a sheen!! This stuff is like skin!!
Only reason why I would try to avoid normal spray paint is that the paint doesn't stick very well on metal and is too thin a coat even when applied several times. Best spray paint I have used are the NIPPON ones but go for about $8 bucks a can!!!
If you have any questions....PM me and we can chit chat more!
My wife never complained about how much time, effort & money I spent on my Astronomy hobby!................suddenly I met her!!!
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orly_andico
- Posts: 1616
- Joined: Sun Aug 09, 2009 11:14 pm
- Location: Braddell Heights
- Contact:
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timatworksg
- Posts: 767
- Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2010 9:42 pm
- Location: Pasir Ris
I would estimate the epoxy paints go for around $80+ a large can with the required hardener. Have not experienced powder coating paint, but I know that the epoxy ones last and are thick and strong. NIPPON also has these. Gotta get the mixing ration correct or else your paint will NEVER dry...lol! Had people before screw the ratio up or completely forget the hardener....paint will remain tacky for weeks!!!! Dries with a nice breeze blowing as the epoxy fumes evaporate....with the hardener all is dry in 30mins....dry to touch in an hour...best to leave them for a day to completely cure.
You could do the tube with epoxy...if worried about brush strokes...thin with thinner and roll on (using epoxy rollers-like smooth sponge not bushy ones for wall paint). Roll on layers after each dries. The rollers also create a nice texture and will look sprayed on!!
I know BERGER has their Epoxy paints listed as BERGER LUXATHANE or BERGER EPILUX series. Alternatives are JOTUN and NIPPON. These paints the normally used on industrial metals and such. We use them on our discharge manifolds, Water cannon platform base, equipment skids, work containers, pumps, poles, plates, choke manifolds...all the emergency drilling stuff...lol!
*On a side note FYI - Food for thought.
If you have a concrete floor or wall which you wish to paint a simple color, get a can of BERGER ROAD LINE Paint! They only come in black and yellow though. Same paint for the road markings. Dries quick and thick layer which is also a little rubbery! I used this on my Kitchen raised skirting where my cabinets sit on! Saved a whole lotta renovation tiling and cementing. So got them to smooth out the concrete and paint with ROAD LINE Black, cabinets installed and whats exposed is painted this paint. Waterproof too!
You could do the tube with epoxy...if worried about brush strokes...thin with thinner and roll on (using epoxy rollers-like smooth sponge not bushy ones for wall paint). Roll on layers after each dries. The rollers also create a nice texture and will look sprayed on!!
I know BERGER has their Epoxy paints listed as BERGER LUXATHANE or BERGER EPILUX series. Alternatives are JOTUN and NIPPON. These paints the normally used on industrial metals and such. We use them on our discharge manifolds, Water cannon platform base, equipment skids, work containers, pumps, poles, plates, choke manifolds...all the emergency drilling stuff...lol!
*On a side note FYI - Food for thought.
If you have a concrete floor or wall which you wish to paint a simple color, get a can of BERGER ROAD LINE Paint! They only come in black and yellow though. Same paint for the road markings. Dries quick and thick layer which is also a little rubbery! I used this on my Kitchen raised skirting where my cabinets sit on! Saved a whole lotta renovation tiling and cementing. So got them to smooth out the concrete and paint with ROAD LINE Black, cabinets installed and whats exposed is painted this paint. Waterproof too!
My wife never complained about how much time, effort & money I spent on my Astronomy hobby!................suddenly I met her!!!
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timatworksg
- Posts: 767
- Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2010 9:42 pm
- Location: Pasir Ris
Hey bro...tale your time to digest...lol! Anything feel free to call or PM me here. Would be glad to explain further.
On the grease....oops! That point was supposed to be after the painting. Was typing lying down and almost asleep. So correction to that....put the grease I mentioned after everything is done to preserve the threads from the elements!
Washing with warm water and soap is good before priming as it removes grease and preps the surface making the paint adhere to the surface. Any greasy spots makes the un-dry paint just flow over!
cheers
On the grease....oops! That point was supposed to be after the painting. Was typing lying down and almost asleep. So correction to that....put the grease I mentioned after everything is done to preserve the threads from the elements!
Washing with warm water and soap is good before priming as it removes grease and preps the surface making the paint adhere to the surface. Any greasy spots makes the un-dry paint just flow over!
cheers
My wife never complained about how much time, effort & money I spent on my Astronomy hobby!................suddenly I met her!!!