CCD vs Film? Lots of time vs no patience? Alright, this is your place to discuss all the astrophotography what's and what's not. You can discuss about techniques, accessories, cameras, whatever....just make sure you also post some nice photos here too!
Last night the sky was partially open. 1st Attempt in shooting Antares and its nearby gas cloud, using Piggy back arrangement. Canon 500D filter Mod, ISO 1600, 1.0 to 2.5 mins, depends on when the cumulus clouds flown in, (sometime pause for 20 mins for them to pass) total exposed for about 50 mins combined, TS-65 Guide Scope, imaging lens = Canon 200mm, Combined result is very Noisy, probably need to go Malaysia for better Signal to Noise Ratio. I suppose this is a good region for intermediate level APer to practice as it consist of many objects surrounding the easily find Anteraes of Scorpio Constellation, other stars can be seen are Rho Ohiuchus, (smaller star on the left that has blue nebulosity by IC 4064; Sigma star that has red nebulosity by Sh2-9 , Globular Cluster M4, IC 4603 etc, the dark dust lane is not very clear here due to severe light pollution drowning it, again, need darker site ..
I've just (re) discovered that the cheap "gimme" objects are globular clusters and planetary nebulae. Just take lots and lots of short subs and you're golden. Guiding optional.
Thanks Alex, Orly & Kimo, forgot to mention that shooting half way with F2.8, i step it up to F3.5 for remaining shots, post processing found those of F3.5 has much better (sharper) stars than F2.8. Also, Beginner, Jeremy and Lton had all recommended the use of Hutech CLS filter instead of the Astronomic CLS filter that i am using, now i found that RAWs are a bit off color balance despite using the properly pre-prepared WB shot.
PETER LOO wrote:Thanks Alex, Orly & Kimo, forgot to mention that shooting half way with F2.8, i step it up to F3.5 for remaining shots, post processing found those of F3.5 has much better (sharper) stars than F2.8. Also, Beginner, Jeremy and Lton had all recommended the use of Hutech CLS filter instead of the Astronomic CLS filter that i am using, now i found that RAWs are a bit off color balance despite using the properly pre-prepared WB shot.
Yup, if your lens is f/2.8 max aperture, it helps to lower it 1 stop for best sharpness (i.e. 50/1.8 is better 50/2.8 and X/2.8 is better X/4.0).
"The importance of a telescope is not how big it is, how well made it is.
It is how many people, less fortunate than you, got to look through it."
-- John Dobson.
Thanks guy, Lton, I was inspired by your Mersing shot in this Rho Ophiuchus region, esp the shot's
natural color with hypermoded cam .. , trying to emulate but seems can never achieve it without first cooling the cam and next, going to darker site ..